Climbing at Exit 38

Apparently the routes in the gym are 'sandbagged' as Chris puts it. It basically means that the routes in the UW gym are way harder than they're rated at. Erika, Andres, Kevin, Chris Ryland and I all went out to Exit 38 yesterday to get some outdoor climbing in. I flashed a lot of 5'9s, knife in the toaster, blockhead, had to take due to Chris's jynx on one of them. The first 9 was over at write-off rock, and then the rest were at 'we did it rock'. I even did a 5.10c (10+) that was called 'open project' in the book. The book is a little over 2 years old though, so it should have a name and stuff in the next edition. We stayed in deception crags area, then went down to substation.

We were in substation earlier practicing repelling on a 5.7 crack under this bridge, when we got there we decided it was far too crowded so we went on over to a wall called Nevermind. Ryland led a 5.11a for us to try. I almost got around the crux (which happened to be at the very start) but ran out of juice. Andres got it after a few tries, which was really inspiring.

There was a guy who had a broken leg in a cast and he was still climbing...he was actually doing well too which was both crazy and amazing.

There's a few new V2's I've been working on that I've managed to piece together most of the moves, but by the time I figured them out 3 hours in today I was just spent. I couldn't even repeat some of the warm-up problems I usually do, so I just took that as a sign to call it a day. I posted pics on facebook, but I suppose I'll post some here later.